Europe with Kids: It’s Not All Gelato (the Other Side of the Grand Tour)

Chrissy:

The blog, like Facebook, is the place where I show my best face. Happiest moments, optimism, wishful thinking. All reflecting only one side of the coin.

The truth is that as much fun as we are having, there are also moments of the ridiculous, despair, tantrums, cross words, the gamut. You know. Those moments of tension over directions, where to eat, schedules. The kid who has to go to the bathroom the second we leave someplace WITH a bathroom.  Not to mention two bee stings (Magnolia, me), a number of large spiders (and me with my phobia) and stinging bugs of every variety (Melisa’s worst fear).

Here’s a little taste of the dark side:

• The kids’ favorite word of the trip is ARMPIT. Just saying it sends both into the giggles.

“I want ARMPIT gelato”

“How many ARMPITS does a deer have?”

“ARMPIT!”

• Most car drives, like the one we made yesterday to Pisa, are characterized by the sillys. For instance: Magnolia coming up with surnames for Betty instead of Boop. You get the idea. Or singing a tuneful melody at the top of her lungs about Spiderman. Jasper punctuates both with random exploding noises. Melisa ignores everything, reading her guidebook, until she can’t. I chew gum like there’s no tomorrow, thinking  “find a happy place, find a happy place.” God bless the iPad. Without it there would be no silence.

• Once we get to our destination, the complaints begin.

“Mom, when can we have lunch?”

“Mommy, can’t we get some gelato?”

“Momma, I can’t walk any further!”

“Mom, can we get a toy? Why nooooottttt?”

“I don’t want to see the leaning tower of Pisa, I want the pool!”

“Mommy, mommy, mommy…(pause) MOOOOOOOMMMY!”

Then: “Not you, OTHER mommy!”

Yesterday, Melisa and I laughed half-way home from Pisa. We were laughing over ARMPIT. It is kind of a funny word.

Melisa:

Chrissy, true to form, has been posting on how fabulous everything is. And, don’t get me wrong — it IS fabulous and we feel very lucky to be here, enjoying exceptional time away from the normal day-to-day of our lives in New York City. But, as you know, we’re a family traveling with young kids. If you’re reading these posts and hating us just a little bit, perk up here — it hasn’t all been great. Here’s what I mean….

Yes, we’ve been seeing beautiful cities and towns and villages in France and Italy, but at a snail’s pace — Magnolia slows EVERYTHING way down. Chrissy and Jasper walk ahead, as if they’re on their own — I have to stop every two seconds with Magnolia, while she gets a rock out of her shoe, scratches an itch, examines a bug bite, picks up something potentially interesting from the sidewalk, stops to smell a flower (yes, she actually does this), or pauses to reflect while asking a pressing question (can we have a picnic on the floor of our house tonight for dinner?). How SLOW can you go? I’m finding out.

Jasper has been giving us the major attitude. He chews with his mouth open, picks his nose (!), touches his sister’s bottom and then laughs uncontrollably, and asks every two seconds for gelato, a piece of Pez candy, chewing gum, or more movies on the iPad. When we ask him to dial it down a notch, he responds with: “Why don’t you quit telling me what to dOOOOOOO?!’ Dude, yeah, no. Get a grip. When you’re like 40, maybe.

And, embarrassingly, our kids are the loudest and the wildest wherever we go. Seriously. Name your nationality or number of kids in a family and we will take their asses down with EASE. We’re the mother-effing international STEAMROLLER of loud and wild.

And you know all those loooong posts from Chrissy you’ve been reading and enjoying? Well, she’s been commandeering the laptop and the kids have had the stronghold on the iPad while I COOK DINNER.

But, you know what? We are having the best time! I’m here with the people I love most in the world, and we are laughing a lot.

ARMPIT!!!!!

And it’s beautiful everywhere we go. Yes, yes. Beautiful.

Shop Local in Brooklyn: Great Places to Find Good Gifts

Shoes, shoes, shoes at m.a.e.

Okay, I missed the Small Business Saturday shopfest last weekend. Believe me, I didn’t want to. I had already planned on buying as many of my gifts locally as possible. When I do head out- hopefully soon!- this is where I’ll go.

Here’s my shopping hit list in Brooklyn:

M.a.e.: My favorite consignment/resale shop! On Seventh Avenue in the South Slope. I scored a pair of Prada heels for $200 and two Diane von Furstenburg dresses ($125 each, with the tags still on them) on my birthday. Might be a good place to pick up a sweet belt or wallet for my mom or sister, or a great top for Melisa. And of course, scope out the deals for me. (buymae.com)

Two Lovers Boutique: My second favorite resale shop in the Slope! A recent find included an ultra-feminine black velvet jacket that I see myself wearing all through the holidays. I’ll look here for unique but affordable jewelry, or fun accent pieces for giftees. (twoloversnyc.com)

Scaredy Kat: The perfect place to grab pretty wrapping paper, or a card for my boss, not to mention fun stocking stuffers for all ages. The mustache kit could bring a smile to an end-of-Christmas-morning holiday crowd. (scaredykatstore.com)

Lulu’s Then and Now: Another great resale shop, this time for kids — you’ll find a tempting selection of clothes, shoes, books, and toys. I have already picked up some great oversized picture books on horses for Magnolia, and a Disney princess puzzle to put under the tree. I hope I’ll get lucky and find a pair or two of skates for the winter. (lulusthenandnow.com)

Diana Kane: Always worth a stop for luxe gifts and that bottle of Kai perfume for Melisa that always seems to be running out. Yum. (dianakane.com)

Neergaard Toys: Yep, that’s right. Above the drugstore on 5^th Avenue and 9^th Street. They have a wide selection of toys, some hard to find. Last year, after scouring the internet for the Melissa & Doug Princess Castle, which was sold out EVERYWHERE, we finally found it here. Whew!

Clay Pot: This Brooklyn favorite is so crowded (and expensive) that normally it would not be on my list at the holidays (despite their beautiful things). But I’m dying to clap eyes on the jewelry from Ananda Khalsa, somewhere other than the internet, and take a look at their pretty ornaments.

Tiny Bluebird stud earrings by Ananda Khalsa, $160 in sterling

And out of the Slope, but well worth a special trip:

Brooklyn Farmacy: This place is a find! Not only is it a terrific soda shop, selling P&H sodas that Melisa posted about recently, amazing ice cream from Adirondack Creamery and pastries from (what I consider the best patisserie in the neighborhood) Trois Pommes, it also is a great go-to spot for locally made gifts. You can find something for everyone here, everyone, that is, who likes good food. Among the offerings: salsa from Brooklyn Salsa Company, McClure’s Bloody Mary mix, chutney from the DP Chutney Collective, and Caitlin Wicker’s “sweater toys” — the cutest baby gift– among much more! All local, all unique. Do some shopping and treat yourself to an egg cream while you’re at it.

Caitlin Wicker's "Forest Friends" / Brooklyn Farmacy

Happy shopping!

French Toast Smackdown: The Best Places to Have Breakfast on Martha’s Vineyard

Okay, the smackdown is really for Jasper. We all love French toast (really, who doesn’t)? Jasper is the only one who orders it, though.

French toast at the ArtCliff Diner.

Breakfast is a great meal to have out with kids. It’s generally louder and more boisterous, i.e. casual, and the food is the easiest to serve up to children. So it’s the one meal we eat out on a fairly regular basis (sigh, as we fondly remember when we were regulars at many restaurants for DINNER). That and the fact that, even on vacation, we are up most days before 7am. Sigh again.

In our “research,” we’ve found great breakfast options for families all over Martha’s Vineyard – and all worth traveling for – including:

THE RIGHT FORK DINER, Edgartown – We know, you are all sick of us talking about it. But the coffee is really, really good. No it is. Like Peet’s Coffee, seriously. And for those of you just tuning in, the place has the added value of being located on an active airfield, with great-looking biplanes taking off and landing right next door PLUS a big yard for kids to run around in.

View of the outdoor dining area and backyard at The Right Fork Diner.

Now, about the food: as satisfying as the coffee. Not the cheapest on the island, but since it’s breakfast with benefits, we can’t complain. All your basics are here, but done to perfection: pancakes, French toast, egg sandwiches (basic or more sophisticated), breakfast burritos, yogurt/fruit/granola combo, not to mention the humble two-eggs, any way. Go. Go now. French toast rating (on scale of 1 to 10): 8 (Jasper) 10 (moms).

LINDA JEAN’S, Oak Bluffs – We love this place! Cheery decor (without being too cutesy), great service, and good, basic food fast. More like a fancy diner than anything else: the portions are tremendous, and for kids there are crayons and a coloring page, plus a special cup (with straw!) and a children’s menu with kid-sized portions. Booths make child seating easy (and there are high chairs galore). This is a bustling place where, if you go early (before 9:00 am), you probably won’t have to wait a minute (be warned that if you go much later, there will be a wait — use the time to explore the main drag in Oak Bluffs). French toast rating: not available at time of publication.

THE BLACK DOG, Vineyard Haven — Obviously, a classic Martha’s Vineyard choice. And since it’s so famous, you can expect a wait. But they’ve got it down to a science over there and they keep things moving.

Woof!

The food is good, the menu is extensive (lots of creative options beyond your generic eggs, ‘cakes, and French toast), and we’ve found the service friendly and efficient. Bonus: Plenty to look at while you wait (the Black Dog gear stores, the ferries coming and going, a walk out onto the dock, watching the black dogs play on the beach, pretty water views). French toast rating: 10 (Jasper) 7 (moms).

A wait, even at 7:15 am.

THE ARTCLIFF DINER, Vineyard Haven, – This funky little place screams “we’ve got a great breakfast” — it’s like you’re in someone’s big home kitchen. It’s homey, there are TONS of menu options (including some great specials), and it’s bustling, so kids are not a problem. Also, they have breakfast tacos. This is always a plus. But in the end…..everything was just fine. Friendly service. The food: fresh, good — but our high expectations exceeded the culinary results. The biggest issue here, though, is the perpetual wait, with nothing to do but kick gravel while doing it (we showed up at 7:15 am and waited at least 20 minutes) — a drag with kids. Jasper on the French toast: Not into it. Brioche, and too much of it. Giant, too-crispy crusts. Rating a 2. From the moms: a 7.

ArtCliff Diner breakfast tacos with salsa and chorizo.

THE STATE ROAD RESTAURANT, West Tisbury – Dinner entrees will run you $30 – $40 each at State Road, so it’s all about breakfast and lunch. The morning atmosphere is casual (no tablecloths) to stay, and easy if you want to order baked goods from the counter to take out. Does mommy need a hot cappuccino? Step right up, and pick up a blueberry basil muffin while you’re at it. The focus here is on organic, fresh and local, with much of the produce served grown right at the restaurant (fun for kids to pick out the berries, apples, tomatoes, etc. growing on the grounds). Awesome breakfast burritos — sophisticated, fresh, delish. And don’t miss the Bacon Cheddar Jalapeño Grits with two eggs, wilted spinach and roast shallots. For the kids: get a side of scrambled eggs and a banana-chocolate chip muffin from the counter. French toast rating: no French toast served!

What a treat! Cheddar-y grits at The State Road.

Last….

A breakfast ordering TIP: A friendly waitress at The Black Dog suggested this to us…. Ask if half-orders are available for pancakes, French toast, etc. They are at The Black Dog, and it cuts down on the bill. Even if there aren’t technically half-orders, once we started asking, we found that places were willing to provide smaller portions of pancakes and more. Never hurts to ask.

As for the French toast smackdown: according to Jasper, The Black Dog was the hands-down winner (and he’s been asking for it every day since). The moms have to weigh in for Right Fork (love the brioche).

Wherever you dine, enjoy! You deserve a great cup of coffee and a yummy breakfast, too, mamas and papas, that SOMEONE ELSE prepared.

Dang, that was good.

Vacation Notes to the Obamas on Martha’s Vineyard: A Travel Guide for the First Family

As you might have heard, the Obamas are headed to Martha’s Vineyard for their August vacation. Lucky for them, we got here first.

When we initially heard the First Family was headed to MV for vacay, the rumor was they would settle in Oak Bluffs, a spot traditionally popular with wealthy African Americans. But true to form, the Prez went for the less expected — the way less populous, very chill area of Chilmark.

It’s right around the corner from our current vacation digs: the quiet little fishing village of Menemsha.

So, listen up, Barack and Michelle: Here are a few of the great local places to check out — all pre-approved by us.

The Bite — Dear Mr. President: We know you are not a fan of fried food, but if you get a small portion of the fried oysters or shrimp here, you can share them with your family and not feel guilty at all.  And, OH YEAH — there’s a reason there is a line (you’ll know why when you take a BITE).

Chilmark Chocolates — A small storefront selling delish dark and milk chocolate treats. Our advice: don’t go on a rainy day, when everyone’s looking for non-beach activities.  On the other hand,  something tells us you’ll be able to skirt the wait whatever the weather conditions.

Squibnocket Beach — We know you’ll have your own private beach on Blue Heron Farm, but this could be a great chance to mingle with (some of the) regular people without having to eat fried food.  There are several lovely beaches and ponds in this area of MV, but we’re partial to this one and we think you will be, too. Beautiful sandy stretches are accessible via a short walk from (Presidential) car to shore. You’ll need a beach sticker, even as a resident, and it will set you back $25. Have your peeps nab the sticker for you at the Town Hall. (FYI, hate to be a drag in case you’re inclined, but nude sunbathing is prohibited at Squibby.)

The Chilmark Public Library — Alan Dershowitz was just there when we dropped by one afternoon to check out DVDs for the kids; we bet the locals will be way more excited to see you pop in.

The Chilmark Community Center — An oasis of “up island” public life. Art shows, plays, and guest speakers for the adults, day camp (hello, babysitting!) and tennis lessons for the girls.

The Farmer’s Market — Held at the Old Ag Hall every Wednesday and Saturday. You can have your people purchase beautiful fruits, veggies, baked goods, and specialty food products (try Pam’s Pesto!) for you here.  Don’t miss the gorgeous-hued, “dinner-plate” size dahlias; we were so impressed, we made dahlias the centerpiece of our wedding last year.

The Home Port — A fave Menemsha stand-by for fresh seafood.  It’s pricey, and we don’t want you catching too much flak for cost (we are footing the bill for this holiday, no?). Skip sitting down for the regular menu and go around back for take-out.

A note about cell phone service on the island — It sucks. But we hear that those with the power are setting up new towers so that you and yours can get better service while you’re here. It’s good to be you (and btw, thanks!).

Island tuneage — Our vote is to keep radios and iPods tuned to MVY Radio.

We hear State Road restaurant is fab (sadly we’ll never get there without a babysitter).  And the Pie Lady (look for the sign “Pies and Otherwise”) on the North Road is a must-stop for tasty homemade desserts.  The Community Church in Chilmark does a lobster roll dinner on Tuesdays for $13.  Mmmm.  And LARSEN’S in Menemsha is the place to go for fresh fish and lobster…

If you need any other recommendations, you can reach us here. Until then, have fun on the Vineyard!